Part 3 · Rooms & Appliances

03·FIR

Gas Fireplace

A direct-vent gas fireplace with ceramic logs, an ember bed, and a factory glass safety screen — a Heatilator NDV3630I-B. It's in the living room (family/great room), the only fireplace in the house, controlled by a wall switch on the left side of the bump-out. Its IntelliFire electronic ignition includes a battery backup, so it can still run during a power outage.

956 N Noble Loop · Showing Edition · Rev A · Aug 2026

At a glance

A Heatilator NDV3630I-B direct-vent gas fireplace. It has a ceramic log set on an ember bed and a factory glass safety screen, and uses Heatilator's IntelliFire electronic ignition system, which includes a battery backup specifically for use during a power outage (see Everyday use). "Direct-vent" means it's a sealed-combustion appliance: it draws combustion air from outside and exhausts outside, not into the room.

Where
The living room (the family/great room), on its east wall. It is the only fireplace in the house.
Must know
The glass front gets dangerously hot during and for a while after use — see the safety callout below before anyone with kids or pets is near it. It's turned on and off at a wall switch on the left side of the bump-out — no remote or wall thermostat is involved. It can also run with the power out, if two D-cell batteries are on hand — see the power-outage callout.
Status
Installed and in working order. Original to the 2017 build. Whether spare D-cell backup batteries are on hand, the gas shutoff location, and the outside vent-termination location are still to confirm.
Direct-vent gas fireplace with ceramic logs and an ember bed behind a glass safety screen, set in a large-format grey tile surround; a Heatilator badge is visible at the lower right of the frame.
The fireplace in the living room — the only one in the house. Heatilator NDV3630I-B, badge visible at the lower right of the frame.
Main floor — Heatilator gas direct-vent fireplace Simplified main-floor plan traced from the architect’s sheet: covered patio and family room across the east (rear) side, kitchen with island and walk-in pantry, dining, entry hall and den/office on the west (street) side, and an L-shaped three-car garage on the north whose deep back bay carries the mechanical equipment. UP COVERED PATIO 9′ CEILING GARAGE 21′1″ × 19′10″ BACK BAY SHOP · 11′0″ × 20′8″ FAMILY 19′7″ × 16′0″ NOOK 10′1″ × 11′0″ BATH MUD KITCHEN COFFEE PANTRY HALL PKT BUTLER’S PANTRY DINING 13′4″ × 10′5″ BAR ENTRY CLOSET DEN 11′10″ × 12′2″ STREET FIREPLACE
Location: main floor — fireplace.

2Everyday use

This fireplace is switch-operated, not remote- or thermostat-controlled — the whole everyday routine is one wall switch.

A direct-vent gas fireplace burns behind a permanently sealed glass front. A dedicated pipe (usually a coaxial two-in-one pipe) brings combustion air in from outside and carries exhaust back out, so the fire never draws on — or exhausts into — the room's air. That sealed design is also what makes the safety screen effective: because the firebox is closed, a screen can sit between the room and the glass without interfering with combustion. This is different from a "vent-free" gas fireplace (which burns room air directly) or a wood-burning fireplace with an open flue.

The switch

The fireplace is turned on and off at a wall switch on the left side of the bump-out that houses it, in the living room (family/great room). There is no remote and no wall thermostat/control panel involved — it's a plain on/off wall switch.
  1. Find the wall switch on the left side of the bump-out in the living room.
  2. Flip it on. This unit uses Heatilator's IntelliFire ignition — an electronic intermittent pilot system, meaning the pilot lights only when the main burner is called for, rather than staying lit continuously. Under normal household power, the wall switch is all you touch.
  3. A simple wall-switch-controlled unit like this one is just on/off, with no variable flame or heat adjustment at the switch itself — the burn-rate (HI/LO) knob is inside the control cavity and is an install-time adjustment, not a day-to-day control.
  4. Flip it off at the same switch. Because IntelliFire is an intermittent pilot (not a standing pilot), the pilot goes out along with the main burner — there is no continuously-lit pilot flame to see either way.

It runs during a power outage

This is a genuinely useful fact for a Ridgefield winter: Heatilator's IntelliFire ignition includes a factory-installed battery-backup tray in the control cavity, taking two D-cell batteries, specifically so the fireplace can be lit and run with no household power at all (owner's manual, Section J, "Operation During a Power Outage"). The batteries are not installed by default: Heatilator's instructions are to keep the tray empty during normal (AC-powered) use, and only insert two D-cell batteries when the power is actually out, then operate the same wall switch as always. Some auxiliary functions (a remote, a fan, lights) are lost on battery power, but this fireplace has none of those anyway — on battery, it lights and heats exactly like it does on grid power. Practical takeaway: keep a spare pair of D-cell batteries near the fireplace so this is actually usable the first time the power goes out, not just theoretically capable. See the power-outage runbook.

The glass gets dangerously hot

The glass front of a direct-vent gas fireplace can reach 500 °F, and in some units nearly 1,000 °F, during use — hot enough to cause a serious burn in a couple of seconds of contact, and it stays hot for a significant time after the fire is turned off. This is a well-documented hazard specifically because the glass looks like it should be safe to touch. Keep children and pets away from the glass whenever the fireplace has been on recently, and never let anyone lean, sit, or place a hand near the front during or shortly after use. Never store anything combustible (paper, decor, stockings, firewood) on or near the mantel or hearth close enough to contact the glass or the heated metal trim.

Factory safety screen

This unit has a factory-installed glass safety screen — a mesh barrier between the room and the hot glass, standard on gas fireplaces built to current safety standards (mandatory on new units since 2015). It reduces, but does not eliminate, the burn risk — treat the callout above as still applying even with the screen in place.

3Maintenance

Annual professional inspection

Have the fireplace and its venting professionally inspected and serviced at least once a year, per NFPA 211 (the national fire-code standard covering chimneys, fireplaces, and vents) — this applies to gas units and their venting just as it does to wood-burning chimneys. A qualified hearth technician will check the burner, pilot/ignition system, gas connections, and the vent termination outside for blockage (nests, debris) or damage. See Documents for sources.
  • Backup batteries: two D-cell batteries live in a tray in the control cavity for power-outage use only — they are not installed during normal operation. Keep a spare, unopened pair near the fireplace (in a kitchen drawer or the utility closet, not necessarily in the unit itself) so an outage doesn't become the moment you discover you don't have them.
  • Glass cleaning: clean only when cool, and use a cleaner rated for fireplace glass (or the manufacturer's recommended product) — household glass cleaners, especially ammonia-based ones, can etch or discolor the ceramic-glass surface.
  • Exterior vent termination: periodically check the outside vent cap (wherever it exits the house — location to confirm) for nests, spider webs, or debris; a blocked termination is a common cause of poor performance or shutdown on a direct-vent unit.
  • Gas shutoff valve: know where the fireplace's dedicated gas shutoff is to confirm/photograph — you should be able to shut off gas to just this appliance without affecting the rest of the house.

4Troubleshooting

  • Won't light at all (power is on): check the wall switch first — make sure it's fully on and that nothing has tripped its circuit at the panel — before assuming a gas problem. If the switch checks out, confirm the gas shutoff valve (once located) is fully open.
  • Won't light and the power is out: the fireplace won't switch itself onto battery automatically. Access the control cavity, insert two D-cell batteries into the battery tray (correct polarity — reversed batteries can damage the ignition module), then flip the same wall switch as always. See the power-outage callout in Everyday use.
  • Pilot won't stay lit, or won't light on a call for heat: on an IntelliFire electronic ignition, this is usually a sign the flame-sensing rod or the ignition module needs attention, or a low battery if you're currently running on backup power — this is a job for a qualified technician, not a DIY fix.
  • Flame looks weak, yellow/sooty, or the glass blackens quickly: can indicate a combustion or venting problem (partial blockage, incorrect gas pressure) — stop using the fireplace and call a professional; a properly tuned gas flame should burn blue at the base without sooting the glass.
  • For anything beyond a switch that's off, a tripped breaker, or inserting backup batteries: gas appliances are not a DIY troubleshooting category — call a hearth professional (see Documents for how to find a Heatilator-authorized dealer).

5Specs & identity

Identity
TypeDirect-vent gas fireplace (sealed combustion, vents to outside) with ceramic logs, ember bed, and a factory glass safety screen
BrandHeatilator (Hearth & Home Technologies)
ModelHeatilator NDV3630I-B. (The "3630" denotes the 30" × 22⅝" viewing area in a 36" rough opening — not the appliance's overall width.)
Serial numberowner's edition
Room locationLiving room (family/great room), east wall. This is the only fireplace in the house.
Control methodWall switch, on the left side of the bump-out. No remote and no wall thermostat/control panel.
Ignition typeHeatilator IntelliFire™ — an electronic, intermittent-pilot ignition system. Includes a factory-installed D-cell battery-backup tray in the control cavity, for use during a power outage — not populated by default; see the power-outage callout in Everyday use.
Install dateOriginal to the 2017 build — already set in its framed chase, wrapped in factory protective plastic, in a March 2017 framing-stage photo; the unit's own owner's manual, with model/serial filled in by the installer, was on site by July 2017.
Gas & venting
VentingDirect-vent (dedicated intake/exhaust piping to the exterior) — does not use or affect room air
FuelThe house is otherwise gas-served (natural gas tankless water heater, furnace); confirm this fireplace runs on natural gas rather than propane
Gas shutoff locationTo confirm/photograph
Vent termination locationTo confirm/photograph (exterior wall or roof cap)
The fireplace wall — pre-wired for a TV
TV wall prepThe wall above the fireplace was pre-wired at build time for a wall-mounted television: a dedicated duplex receptacle plus a separate low-voltage pass-through plate, for an HDMI or network cable to drop down inside the wall. Blocking for the mount was set at framing, and a heavy full-motion articulating mount is installed.
The mount itselfA heavy-duty, full-motion articulating mount was installed at build time (not a fixed or simple tilt bracket) — which implies solid in-wall blocking/backing capable of carrying a heavier panel. Useful if a different or heavier TV is ever hung here: the structural support is already in place.
The two grey panels flanking the mountTwo flat, unframed, light-grey rectangular panels flank the TV mount in the same 2017 photo, standing slightly proud of the drywall, with no visible frame, fasteners, or grille perforation at that resolution. Open — not resolved. Two candidate readings, no more than that: (a) a pair of paintable, frameless in-wall speaker grilles for an L/R pair flanking the TV — if so, this would be a second in-wall speaker pair the manual doesn't otherwise record, distinct from the separate media room's own wiring; or (b) surface-applied backing/patch panels left over from the mount installation. To confirm at walkthrough — do not assume either answer without looking.

6Documents & links

Section 8Technical reference ExpandCollapse

The engineering layer — for a buyer's technician, or a curious owner.

Why "direct-vent" is the safer sealed-glass design: because combustion air and exhaust both travel through a dedicated pipe to the outside, the firebox is a closed system — the glass front can be permanently sealed rather than left as an open hearth. That sealing is what makes the mandatory safety screen possible: the screen sits in the air gap between the room and the sealed glass without disturbing combustion, unlike an open wood fireplace where a screen only ever catches sparks. It also means a direct-vent fireplace, unlike a vent-free one, cannot introduce combustion byproducts into the room under normal operation.

Owner's edition

Full details in the owner's edition — serial numbers, configuration and identity details continue in the complete manual, handed to the buyer at closing.

The power-outage capability, and how it actually works: Heatilator's IntelliFire ignition is an electronic intermittent pilot system — the pilot lights only on a call for heat, rather than burning continuously — and it includes a factory battery-backup tray for exactly this scenario. It is not automatic, though: the fireplace does not sense a power failure and switch itself to battery. Someone has to open the control cavity, load two D-cell batteries into the tray (with correct polarity — reversed batteries can damage the ignition module), and then operate the ordinary wall switch. Once power is restored, Heatilator's own instructions are to remove the batteries again rather than leave them in continuously, since high appliance temperatures shorten battery life. The practical version of this fact: this fireplace can genuinely provide heat and light on a dark, cold, no-power evening, but only if a spare pair of D-cell batteries is actually on hand when it matters — see the maintenance section.

The pre-wired TV wall: the wall above the fireplace was planned for a wall-mounted television at framing, not adapted afterwards. Horizontal blocking was set in the chase to carry the load, and the finished wall has a dedicated duplex receptacle plus a separate low-voltage pass-through plate so an HDMI or network cable drops down inside the wall rather than hanging across it. A heavy, full-motion articulating mount is installed. This is the kind of build quality that becomes invisible the moment the drywall goes up. Two flat grey panels flank the mount and their identity is a genuinely open question (see specs above) — resist the temptation to call them speakers without looking.

What to gather to finish this page: the gas shutoff and outside vent-termination locations; confirmation of natural gas vs. propane; whether/when the fireplace has last been professionally serviced; whether a spare pair of D-cell backup batteries is actually kept on hand; and the identity of the two grey panels flanking the fireplace-wall TV mount.